Measuring waves: Formed by wind blowing along the water’s surface, wave height depends on wind speed, fetch length (distance the wind blows over water with similar speed and direction), and duration of time the wind blows consistently over the fetch. High wind speeds blowing for long periods of time over long stretches of water result in the highest waves. Waves are still formed by the local wind, but once formed they continue to travel for thousands of miles.
Making waves: generating regular waves in a wave tank in Bergen, but our request for something more dramatic proved rather too challenging. We left them staring into their computer with Kristian Dythe's mathematical formulae for an extreme wave.... maybe next time..